11 questions with Pallavi Mohan - Designer Interview series

Interview by Rajeshwari Agrawal & Sukiran Singh

Rajeshwari: Do you think, in general, India is taking a step forward to modernization or rather doing a moonwalk?

Pallavi: India is definitely progressing towards modernization. More and more designers are making the use of latest technologies, be it laser cut machinery and CAD systems for their designing process. We are not fully dependent on human labour anymore; efforts of each atelier are to offer value for money or move towards more technology fabrics or techniques for faster and cheaper turn around while being consistent in quality.

Modernization is also about reviving and reinventing our traditional handicrafts and age-old techniques that are now thoughtfully incorporated by a lot of Indian designers.

R: Do you represent the modern India and how?

P: Yes, we represent modern India. Today’s modern woman wants to invest in statement pieces that merge western sensibilities with an Indian ethos, which has always been the ideology behind “Not So Serious by Pallavi Mohan”.

R: Where do you place yourself a revolutionary, an observer or a passer by?

P: I am a bit of all.

R: Ever wondered if your designs hold a social significance? If not, would you want them to invoke change? (Talking about in the lines of Coco Chanel and Mary Quant, who changed the complete silhouette of their times to free women.

P: Coco Chanel and Mary Quant were from a different era. Thankfully, today’s generation of women enjoy a certain sense of freedom of expression through their style and fashion choices.

“Not So Serious by Pallavi Mohan” designs for women who are confident to embrace modern silhouettes but at the same time, have a sense of belonging, staying true to their roots.

R: What is your inspiration for getting an inspiration and when the inspiration strikes, what do you first do?

P: Each visit, be it to Paris, Rome, Santorini or Prague have formed a source of inspiration and has reflected in some way or another in our subsequent collections. For instance, for my Autumn Winter’16 collection ‘Synthesis’, I have incorporated intricate hand embroidery that draws inspiration from sea anemone motifs and floral designs.

I also have a passion for books (art, architecture, photography, botanical, textiles and biographies).

Art of various forms also inspires me to think that creativity has no boundaries and makes me experiment with different textures and silhouettes with each collection.

R: Do you think travels open minds?

P: Travel definitely opens the mind, with each new place to discover we get to know their local crafts, cuisines, landscape, flora and fauna. Travel has always inspired me to experiment with different elements and works as a creative stimulator to give the best to my art form.

R: Do your roots matter to you and how much they influence your design process?

P: Yes, my roots and the whole evolution have influenced my design process. After having graduated in Art and further on a Bachelor’s degree in Textile Design from University of Arts London – Chelsea School of Art and Design, I worked as the creative force behind the “Made in India” label for Magnolia Martinique. As the Design Director at Magnolia, I have always been instrumental in working with international brands like Roberto Cavalli, Jean Paul Gaultier, Juicy Couture and Alice & Olivia amongst many others. My experience with some of the best international labels has given me a keen understanding about the demands and functioning of the global fashion industry.

In 2007, I launched my label “Not So Serious” in India and have been displaying interesting mix of colors and combination of mix media with feminine sensibility, which is the essence of my label. After 9 years, the brand has a strong signature; it’s definitely stylish but not so serious.

R: Can you call yourself a true artist? And what do you think is more important - sharing ideas or making money?

P: I don’t know if I would call myself as a true artist but I definitely try of designing my collection considering it as an art form.

Sharing ideas is as important as making money because without commercial success one wont be able to propel these ideas further.

R: Have you ever designed something only for yourself and not give a F* about the world ? (The world being money, perceptions and society)

P: Fortunately I have been able to pursue my passion through designing and the patrons of the Brand have always appreciated it.

I have never thought about designing a collection only for myself but it has always been struck with the audiences out there whether it is media, wires or the people.

R: Is money a restriction for working in India?

P: No, I do not think money is a restriction for working in India. If you have the talent and the ability to work hard in any and every field, success will come to you.

R: Tell us in short about your latest collection.

P: My Autumn/Winter’16 collection, “Synthesis” is an amalgamation of various elements that are brought together in a powerful yet cohesive way. The collection incorporates the use of hand crafted techniques that have become the hallmark of the brand.

We live in a world that is constantly trying to fall apart. The world needs to come together and celebrate diversity. This ‘synthesis’ of ideas is a small manifestation of that philosophy.

Organic and spectral effects are created by a kaleidoscope of organza elements and shingled panels. Dimensional layering techniques are further enhanced using precision laser cut leathers. Interwoven strips in contrast create depth and visual complexity. Fabric manipulation and three dimensional form give life to this collection. “Synthesis” aims at celebrating the diversity giving our lives a meaningful perspective.