Lakme Fashion Week AW 2018 Day 1
INIFD opened Lakmé Fashion Week Winter/Festive 2018 with the 26th batch of five sensational gen next designers
It’s always the most eagerly awaited show by the fashion fraternity and connoisseurs of style. The 26th batch of five Gen Next designers presented by INIFD opened Lakmé Fashion Week Winter/Festive 2018 with their style predictions for the coming season. The Gen Next programme has introduced the brightest names in the fashion industry for 13 years. Designers like Nachiket Barve, Rahul Mishra, Aneeth Arora, Masaba Gupta and many more have made an impressive impact on the Indian as well as the international fashion industry. The creativity of the new talented quintet on the ramp, dazzled the appreciative audience as they made copious notes about the new stars’ collections.
Ajay Kumar Singh – Creatively and socially relevant
Ajay Kumar Singh, the National Institute of Fashion Technology, Mumbai graduate, knew his fashion craft perfectly. His decade long experience with Yash Raj Films and Channel V had prepped him for the impressive debut at the Gen Next show. Ajay’s label ‘AUR’ presented a socially relevant message with his interesting creations. He was inspired by the imagination of mentally disabled children and turned their creations into his motifs. Using the wonderful Khadi with digitally printed graphics and dyed to perfection, Ajay further added Kantha detailing to complement the silhouettes. An electric blue textured coat looked perfect over a dusty, printed, cropped, top and long-sleeved shirt. The trio of layered white midi, feminine top, teamed with candy pink machined yoke and bolero, had numerous mix and match possibilities. Doodles of clouds for layered dresses, kurtas with biker jacket, pleated cropped pants, short peplum jacket, and crinkled appliquéd maxi were some more eye-catchers. Pleated palazzos, wide luxurious bolero and layered skirts completed the look.
For the girl on the move, Ajay Kumar Singh’s ‘AUR’ collection will be the perfect wardrobe addition.
Anurag Gupta – A Fashion Metamorphosis
Working with Khadi denim and Khadi linen, Anurag Gupta’s collection had an innovative inspiration. He looked at artist Maurits Cornelis Escher’s Day and Night Artwork, which pushed his creativity onto the high ground. There was an eye-catching play of silhouettes, forms, colours, motifs, fabrics and dyes that revealed a fashion metamorphosis on the catwalk. Having graduated from the Northern Indian Institute Fashion Technology and worked with India’s star designers like Manish Arora and Varun Bahl, Anurag’s fashion sensibilities were finely tuned. There was a relaxed vibe about the cropped pants in shades of indigo with discreet motifs. The double-breasted, short, printed jacket with imposing lapels added to the on- trend looks of the garment. Detailing was important as tabs on cuffs and cleverly constructed layered jackets, made a cool fashion statement ideal for the coming months. The jumpsuit with tiny embroidery and the asymmetric silhouettes of the garments were the characteristic look of the collection.
For a stylish wardrobe, when the mercury moves South, Anurag Gupta’s ensembles will make the trend quotient rise.
Kanika Sachdev – Fashion In Stories
Kanika Sachdev’s fashion credentials are solid having acquired a degree in Fashion Design from AID, New Delhi. To further upgrade her knowledge, she worked with fashion maestros, Anju Modi, Label Ritu Kumar and Varun Bahl. Kanika’s ‘Jajaabor’ label presented “The Artful Lodger” that made a stirring impact on the Gen Next ramp as she unveiled ensembles in Khadi, cotton, Chanderi silk and silk organza. The inspirations were the various homestay stories around the world. To highlight her fabric selection, Kanika brought in reactive prints with embroidery and the result was a ‘white and shades of blue’ along with red and pink fantasy that was practical but eye-catching. The deep blue, zippered, jacket with clusters of embroidered flowers, running stitch and quirky street names like “W 30th Street” or “Waverly Street” was a fun outfit. Also eye-catching was the architectural prints of row houses in blue on white for the long-sleeved dress, while floppy cropped jackets and flared skirts had a trendy appeal. Stripes and dots appeared for asymmetric dress, while a sari with a soft coat, floral embroidered mini, a soft biker and the imposing red poncho cape with a striped sari were great wardrobe additions.
For the fashion trendsetter who looks for some whimsical prints and embellishments, “The Artful Lodger” collection from the ‘Jajaabor’ label by Kanika Sachdev offered a free-wheeling design initiative.
Shweta Gupta – Textured for Perfection
Shweta Gupta ensured that after graduating from the National Institute of Fashion Technology, Gandhinagar she worked with the best in the fashion industry. So, her years with Tarun Tahiliani, Gaurav Gupta and Varun Bahl gave her the knowledge and confidence to launch her label ‘SWGT’.
Aiming to cater to the Winter/Festive 2018 season, Shweta’s fabric choice had to be handloom Chanderi in yarn dyed cotton silk and of course Merino Wool. The inspiration was rather unconventional pertaining to age old rocks as well as nomadic travellers. So the weaves revealed a marked influence of landscapes and textures that were created with various yarns, smocking and fabric hand manipulation.
The earthy, colour card of grey, mud, slate, silt, beige and brown was the basis for the striped fitted trousers, concealed placket shirt and striped cape. The heavily smocked bodice of the long-sleeved, striped, dress was further highlighted with rows of smocking on sleeves and skirt. Slim pants with angular kurta and shawl shrug, the hoodie style shawl, draped collar for an asymmetric maxi and the empire line, pleated, flared, maxi revealed intense detailing of the extreme kind.
For lovers of earthy fashion with some extreme detailing ‘SWGT’ by Shweta Gupta will score high on the fashion charts.
Yadvi Agarwal – Fashionably Exclusive
When art meets fashion, the result is an arresting visual presentation on the ramp. Yadvi Agarwal’s ‘YAVI’ label was a celebration of colours, textures and styles as they were exclusive pieces created according to the needs of the buyers.
Having acquired a Masters in Textile Design from the National Institute of Design, Ahmedabad and a Bachelors’ from Pearl Academy of Fashion, Delhi, Yadvi added to her CV the post of Head Designer at SPUN by Welspun Global Brands Ltd and also gained valuable experience by working with EKA and Pero.
The impressionism style and the city of Paris inspired Yadvi’s ‘YAVI’ label, so her innovative use of indigenous traditional textiles was amply visible. Hand painting was the focal point of the collection that heightened its appeal. The textured, woven, patched, mini with multi-hand painting had an unusual appeal, while the shirt with an abstract splash of prints highlighted with a pocket and collar as the focal points, was a stylish offering. Pleated skirt with matching bell-sleeved blouse, soft jackets over sari with asymmetric blouse, slim skirt with tie-up top, cropped pants, waistcoat over shirt and sari were a variety of choices for the wearer.
For the buyer who desires exclusive pieces in her wardrobe, Yadvi Agarwal’s ‘YAVI’ label will be the perfect option.
ELLE Graduates winners steal the spotlight at Lakmé Fashion Week
ELLE India and IMG Reliance’s ‘ELLE Graduates’ show at Lakmé Fashion Week Winter/Festive 2018-19 brought together the future of fashion in three outstanding labels
Mumbai, August 22, 2018: Designers Shenali Sema and Rinzin Lama (of Untitled Co.), Divya Sheth and Advaeita Mathur (of Studio Metallurgy) showcased their latest collections for a packed audience at a first-of-its-kind show at Lakmé Fashion Week, at St. Regis, Mumbai, on Wednesday.
The fashion fraternity came together to cheer on the young designers, who were the recipients of this year’s prestigious ELLE Graduates awards. The annual talent hunt for the brightest in fashion—helmed by the world’s leading fashion magazine ELLE India—was driven by a star-studded jury that included: fashion designers Payal Khandwala and Rahul Mishra, Jaspreet Chandok (vice president and head of fashion, IMG Reliance), Diana Marian Murek (director of education at ISTITUTO MARANGONI, Mumbai) and entrepreneur Swati Wadhwani, alongside ELLE India’s editor Supriya Dravid and fashion director Malini Banerji, and Ogaan Media Private Limited vice chairperson Aashti Bhartia.
It comes as no surprise then, that the show was an incredible success, especially once crooner Ankur Tewari’s classic tunes filled the room. Garment designer Sheth’s line, ‘Shizen’, was inspired by kimonos, and it seamlessly melded Indian craftsmanship and Japanese aesthetics—we’re talking beautiful hand-painted and hand-blocked creations in organic silk, khadi and crushed cotton.
Jewellery designer Mathur’s avant-garde collection, ‘Débris’, was inspired by the idea of marine detritus, and was created using common water pollutants such as styrofoam bits and polymer balls. It mimicked manmade waste in our oceans and served to remind viewers of the former beauty of underwater flora.
Untitled Co. presented ‘Collection__02’, which brought forth multi-hued separates created using unique textures and embroidery techniques.
Good Earth debuts at Lakmé Fashion Week 2018 with its first-ever couture collection – ‘The Miniaturist’
~ An immersive encounter with embellished cloth ~
Mumbai, August 22, 2018: A decade since the launch of its clothing line Sustain, Good Earth made its debut at Lakmé Fashion Week 2018 with its first-ever couture collection - The Miniaturist.
Designed by Namrata Rathi, The Miniaturist epitomizes slow fashion and is a collection of 27 ensembles that have been painstakingly hand-crafted, each piece timeless and unique. Every design from this collection emerges from the creative vision of Anita Lal, Founder & Creative Director, Good Earth and the aesthetic direction of Deepshikha Khanna, Head of Apparel line Sustain, which were then translated into the garments by native Jaipur artisans, creating works of art, reminiscent of the wedding wardrobes of almost a century ago.
And yet, each ensemble reflected a contemporary sensibility with its subtle interplay of colour and diaphanous silhouettes. The intricate marriage of art and craft, the rich colour palette imitating jewel hues of amethyst and aquamarine and the use of the finest, luxurious fabrics of Silk Kota, Gajji Silk and Mashru, underlines the brand's homage to the traditional craft of Gota shown at its original level of craftsmanship.
The classic silhouettes of Rajasthan such as the Jama, the Ghagra-Choli, and even the glamorous polo saris, were given a modern spin to provide trendsetting styles for the modern women. The revival of the Patka (sash) and Patua (tassels), hand cut motifs of Chaand, Anaar and Baadal in 3-D textures, delicate artistry of floral thread work, geometric Jaal patterns, aari & danka work, all came together to complement & accentuate the splendour of this royal tapestry. Pushing the boundaries on Gota and the workmanship, Good Earth also revealed a fresh spin on Gota with a line of Gota accessories such as the Bajubandh, Jhoomar, Borla, ear cuffs, Potlis, etc. to enhance the festive spirit of the ensembles and present Gota in a never-seen-before fashion.
As a befitting presentation for this special collection, Pavitra Rajaram, Lead Designer at Good Earth, converted the brand's flagship store at Raghuvanshi Mills into a Museum style exhibit, to take the audience through an immersive journey into the history of Gota detailing the nuances and process of the creation of their collection – ‘The Miniaturist’. The exhibit was a resplendent showcase of heirloom Gota pieces, intricately embroidered motifs & patterns of the collection, vintage photographs of Royal Gota ensembles along with a documentation of the tools & methods used to create these pieces. This engaging storytelling formed the perfect premise to the tableau style presentation of the garments that followed, where models came alive in diverse intimate settings paired with live songs by Suchismita Das while the audience got a chance to get enthralled viewing the garments up close. An all-senses invoking experience made it a unique show from Good Earth.
Speaking on the occasion, Mrs. Lal, Good Earth, said, "Like a master miniaturist creates a world of wonder through the finest delicate strokes of his brush, so has our designer created the most exquisite patterns in minute detail that can best be appreciated when seen up close, just as with miniatures. A priceless tradition, fine Gota work needs to be sustained through sensitive design intervention and presented to a discerning audience, which was our passionate effort through this show. “
A gilded evening with our exclusive beverage partner Grey Goose, celebrated this milestone of Good Earth’s debut showcase for Lakme Fashion Week 2018 at the flagship store at Raghuvanshi Mills, Mumbai.
‘The Miniaturist’ collection will be available for bespoke orders only.
SHWETA KAPUR’S COLLECTION 12 WAS A PERFECT TRAVEL WORTHY OFFERING AT LAKMÉ FASHION WEEK WINTER/FESTIVE 2018
The label 431-88 by Shweta Kapur took the audience through an interesting travel worthy wardrobe during Lakmé Fashion Week Winter/Festive 2018. It was a fashionable journey that was inspired by cities and far flung destinations around the world. Shweta’s presentation called “Collection 12” was a line of garments that borrowed heavily from the men’s wear aesthetics, but brought in a softer silhouette that would make the apparel ideal holiday wear.
For a unique start, it was an airport scene with flight details on the screen and the models hurrying for their flights.
The colour palette selected by the designer was reserved for olive, navy, mustard and khaki with bursts of red, orange and gold for added excitement. While the shade card was relatively sombre, it was the fabric choice that created magic on the ramp. Stripped off arduous forms and extraneous details, the pieces in the collection nodded towards structure and utility. Luxurious, fluid, folds of silk came together with cool, breezy, cotton, which was showered with multi-coloured sparks of the very unusual embroidery that was inspired by the sea life of the Great Barrier Reef.
What was appealing on the ramp was the black sequinned strappy jumpsuit ideal for a night out at the club. On the other side of the spectrum was the white oversized blouse with an animal print skirt that made a striking impact. The zippered leather jacket in brown and black was perfect for globe-trotting any time.
For a show stopping garment, it was a mesmerizingly beautiful red strapless gown with a long train. While life in the 21st century moves at breakneck speed, Shweta Kapur’s “Collection 12” for her label 431-88 offered a line of clothing that was relaxed and calming as one travelled around the globe.
A UNIQUE GRAPHIC FASHION PRESENTATION BY URVASHI JONEJA WAS A GREAT VISUAL EXPERIENCE AT LAKMÉ FASHION WEEK WINTER/FESTIVE 2018
Inspirations for Urvashi Joneja’s collections have always been unique visual experiences for the viewers. For Lakmé Fashion Week Winter/Festive 2018, Urvashi’s line called “Away” revolved around the imagery of flying away and breaking through the glass ceiling. It was a look that played creatively with graphics that was an unconventional merger of shattered fragments, which eventually came together as visuals of flying birds like eagles and parrots.
The colour story reflected the full segment of hues that would appear when light shines through glass fragments. So red, blue, green, yellow and purple shimmered on the runway. Detailing was given prime importance as careful pleating and 3D texturing added to the beauty of the graphic forms on various fabrics. Layering played a major role for nearly every ensemble as the feminine drapes flowed gracefully around the models.
The striking all white latticework halter-top over a floral appliquéd sheer dress, fitted the theme of the show. The intricate laced, corset, choli with matching sari in a kaleidoscope of abstract designs and colours as well as the red fully textured lean dress were perfect graphic examples.
Luxury was very much apparent when a flared white long-sleeved maxi with a colourful parrots print sprinkled came down the ramp. The sun yellow angarkha style ensemble was dappled with cascading geometric motifs in blue, red and green but teamed with a white inner and green/black dotted parallels. For a fun entry it was sun yellow pants again with graphic motifs, but this time styled with a red checked balloon-sleeved blouse.
For a show stopping garment it was the beautiful Bollywood actress and video jockey, Rhea Chakraborty, in a spectacular black gown with two huge eagles in 3D appliqué work that stole hearts.
When freedom in fashion is the key word, then Urvashi Joneja’s collection called “Away” will transport the style followers into a world of inner calm and peace.
Lakmé official makeup expert Daniel Bauer for 431-88 by Shweta Kapur and Urvashi Joneja - "We wanted to keep the look really effortless, beautiful and achievable. We played with natural and messy hair. In terms of make-up, we brought a very beautiful sheen into the skin, stepping away from the classic dewy skin to bring in the soft bronzy tone using the new Lakmé foundation stick from the ‘Kareena Kapoor Khan collection’. For lips we kept it very natural and to keep in tune with the overall softness of the look, we also kept the nails natural. To add that slight fashion quotient to the look we brought in a soft and subtle graphic eyeliner, using the new Eye definer in cobalt again from the ‘Kareena Kapoor Khan by Lakme Absolute‘ range.
Celebrities at LFW day 1
Mindmag, Mind mag
